K4rMa

10 topics with the same subject ? The official topic of each day and night ? Lol i dont think so.. spam section is supposed to be here for spam games with words etC... and dont for bullsh1ts... Yeah u can create whatever topic u like here... or ask whatever... but topics with sense.

H stamatate ta sage k ola ta sxetika ta asteiakia... k milate kanonika san anthropoi panw s ena 8ema opws anoigate st alla topics h to topic kleidwnete k de-stickarete... Mporei na mn sas niazei dn kserw.. egw tn anafora m tn ekana ;P kante oti nomizete

Egw to topic to stickara gia sizitisi... alla an tn vriskete etsi me auto to "SAGE" ti na pw... Ela na paiksw... pame oloi mazi... SAGE... Ela o epomenos.. (Aporw merikes fores sovara ti pa8enete wres wres)

k edw irema e p sas to ekana sticky :P miliste oti 8elete.. aggelous... fantasmata... oti 8elete.. Arkei na mn uparxei suskotisi... k flam. /TaLk

E dn pate kala re sovara.. exete gemisei to spam section me mlkies... RE... dn anoigei edw o ka8e kaKomoiris oti tou katevei.. gia ksanadiavaste ta rules.. O allos m leei to official topic tis simerinis nixtas ... k 8a anoigeis ka8e mera apo ena tetio ? Oi 2-3 selides tou spam section einai gia remove sovara.... Lpn 8a sas kanw sticky auto k sizitiste oti sas katevei sovara... oxi gia ka8e mlkia k ena topic... ainte.. http://www.maxcheaters.com/forum/index.php?topic=70523.0 LOCKED.

locked

Exete xazepsei h m fenete...

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Links is dead topic locked. @Nakamoura If you re-upload send me a PM to unlock, thanks locked.

qq Dn einai mono apo to 2008. alla kaneis k double post. Gia auto exoume to edit. Gia na kaneis modify an parelipses h 8eleis na pros8eseis kt meta. Episis an exeis to idio provlima me auto to topiC... 8a anoigeis kainourgio topiC afou prwta kaneis search k dn vreis lusi. 1rst warning locked.

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Iremia.... Opoios katalave katalave... locked.

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My result: :P

yeaP.. twra an 8es tutorials k tetia.. exoume kamposa st tutorials section. SEARCHHH locked.

Greetings, Sig files in forums are nothing new; with an effective imagination not the rectangular slab of trite new-age image boredom that, many 'Iz so kool!' tutorial non withstanding, many think it is. And quite frankly, why be happy with this: When you can have.... How does one embrace this new epic of coolness and 'net savy? I cannot say that I know definitivly the method but I can safely state I know a method. Well, first you need to know what is required and in the spirit of that inquiry.... A LIST OF WHAT IS REQUIRED Photoshop Imageready Animation isolated from a larger bit of animation (Like with an movie editing program of some sort) A way to convert the .AVI format to .MOV(Quick Time) Part the First: Understanding. There are several things to understand. One. Know that whatever you want animated must be incredibly short and the less happening in it, the better. It's quite easy for a ten second bit of animation to blow a sig file size well over the one megabyte mark. Even with high speed 'net connections popping up all over the place, that's a bit excessive for a sig file. I make mine by phrase: Under Five Seconds or Under Five Hundred Kilobytes. Two. You're going to end up with a .GIF, not a JPEG so be prepared to lose some detail. Not as much as you'd originally think, but some nonetheless. Three. You're smashing several different formats together and the end result can have wacky results. Patience, as with all things, is key and improvising too. This is not a general outline, but specific instructions but even these steps have produced some results that have freaked me out, proven nigh impossible to understand why, but I have always found a work-around. Part The Second: The Parts. Any animated sig file is made up of two parts. The Core Graphic. The Animation. For the Core Graphic make whatever strikes your fancy. Just like a normal static sig a few things I would recommend: However you're going to place the animation within the Core-Graphic make sure the animation will be enclosed in a frame. Chances are you can't do diddly with whatever is in the background in the animation and just having this color difference 'hanging' in the open space of a static image is careless. It doesn't look good. You might be tempted to not use a rectangular shape since in .GIF files empty space takes on the background of wherever they are posted. In a word: DON'T. I don't know how it is for all .GIFs but animated .GIFS have an ugly white frame around anything not covered by a background color made in the creation of the image. In other words, if I were to post this: in any other forum that didn't have a white background, you'd see a very, VERY ugly white frame following the contours of the image. It's far better to create a square image and if you want to 'break out' of the rectangular format for sig files then make a layer matching the color used in whatever forum you frequent. This has been a lot easier since I found this nifty color sampling add-on for Firefox which is called ColorZilla Continued Below. I remain, as always, Mad-Hamlet Greetings, So by now lots of you are thinking, 'Okay, this schmuck has used this so far to 'show off' and throw a lot of DURRRTASTIC information at us, when are we going to get to the actual mechanics?' Right now. I'm going to assume that you know how to create a Core Graphic and have edited your animation and converted it to a .MOV format. (Remember? That's what Quicktime is) Okay. Part The Third: Tweaking the Animation. Open Imageready. Go to File> Open. Browse to your .MOV file and click open. You will see: Make sure the button marked 'From Beginning to End' is marked. Below that is an option that normally will be greyed out. Select it, from there you have the option of having the program choose every 2nd, 3rd, 4th so on, frame from the animation. I cannot stress this enough: We Want To Keep It Small!! In that interest I typically choose every 3rd frame but have sometimes gone so far as every 6th. I have never chosen every 2nd frame and the idea of including every frame from an original animation is so hysterically stupid that I've fallen out of my chair laughing before ever reaching the 'Okay' button. Typically no more than fifty frames is good for a three to four second bit of animation. But feel free to experiment. Oh, the fewer the frames the faster the animation will play in the end result. When you're ready and happy with the number of frames hit okay. Now you should be here: http://www.photochopz.com/forum/tutorialpics/madsig/image02ha0.jpg[/img] For the sake of ease I've moved the Layers tab (Or window) There are two windows, the Layers tab and the Animated Frame Tab. Burn this into your brain: What you change on a layer, you change in the corresponding frame of animation. So, erase a bit of head in frame ...say...thirty two, whoops, that head vanishes from the corresponding frame and doesn't your animation now look ugly? You can find out what frame represents what layer by looking for the 'Eye' in the layers tab that shows which layer is currently active. The first thing you want to do is have a way to grab all these different layers easily, so make a group-layer folder and shove all the layers in there. This will not effect the animated frames at all. http://www.photochopz.com/forum/tutorialpics/madsig/image03cg7.jpg[/img] A moment if you please: I want to be clear that I don't think anyone here doesn't know these basic steps but I'm writing this for the 'everyman' and that is best done by assuming that even the smallest step can present a monumental roadblock. Now, back to the action. I remain, as always, Mad-Hamlet Greetings, Part the Forth: Tweaking the Core Image. This one won't require any real images. To get the Core-Image ready to be joined with the animation you'll have to, or at least I've found it a lot easier, to merge all the existing layers onto one layer. So, make sure you're happy with what you've got then merge the layers. Do not flatten the image or save as a JPEG, that'll fill any blank spots you've left for the animation with white. Then, when you're done go to 'File > Edit In Imageready' and your now mono-layered PDS will be shunted into the brother program of our beloved Photoshop. So you have the Core-Image done and your animation for the most part ready and tucked away. Great, let's move on then. Part the Fifth: You've got your Core-Image in my Animation! http://www.photochopz.com/forum/tutorialpics/madsig/image04we4.jpg[/img] Here we see where people hit the first major snag. They open the Core-Image and then try to shove the animation into it and in point of order, we want to go in reverse. I'm not as familiar as I should be with Imageready, in fact, this is about the only thing I can do with it but I digress. In the image above I've 'selected' the Core-Image and in the animated frame window you can see a whopping total of one frame, which is why shoving the animation in there won't work. You'll have umpeen layers shoved into one frame. The image will freeze. What you have to do is pull the Core-Image into the Animation and line them up real nice. First we change the canvas size of the animation to match the image size of the Core-Image. http://www.photochopz.com/forum/tutorialpics/madsig/image05jd7.jpg[/img] Which in this case was 524x159 Second we actually drag the Core-Image into the Animation...which is right about when everything goes straight to hell. Earlier I stated what effects the layers, affects the frames. This is now more true than ever. You're going to be dragging the mono-layered Core-Image into the animated window but you'll have to line it up. So let's do that, let's go by the old fashioned method of dragging one image into another then lining up the edges, save as .GIF and bask in our animated sig file glory. But...but what did I do wrong? I lined up the Core-Image perfectly! See? http://www.photochopz.com/forum/tutorialpics/madsig/image06po5.jpg[/img] By Joves, Holmes! What curmudgeons is this? I don't see how even your magnificent brain can solve this puzzle! To be Continued! Dun-Dun-Dun-DUUUUNNN!!! I remain, as always, Mad-Hamlet Greetings, So what went wrong? Simple really, well it wasn't simple to figure out, in fact, the first time I hit this snag I got so frustrated I wanted to track down the programmers of Imageready and gnaw through their brain stems, but upon actual real reflection I was ashamed that I hadn't figured it out earlier. Here is the problem. I wrote already how what affects a layer affects a frame and vice versa. Only one frame of animation was 'Activated' when I dragged the Core-Image into the animation, then lined the Core-Image along the edges; because of that, only for a split second does the image line up correctly, for the rest of the time the Core-Image is seen where it was when it was initially dragged into the Animation ! Can we hear it for DUuurrrrhhh!! Here's how you drag a Core-Image into Animation. -Drag n' drop the Core-Image into the animation. This will be reflected in every frame. -Select all the frames. Scroll the Animated Frame window to frame one, click on frame one, then holding down 'shift' scroll to the right and click on the last frame. -Look at the Layer Tab, the Layer with the Core-Image should still be 'activated', if not, activate it again- this will not deactivate the frames- and line up the Core-Image correctly. You're done. At least with that step. It's always a good idea to test the animation as there might be a frame still not synced up right, just highlight it, and you'll see what's wrong, correct it, and it should be smooth so you'll have, something akin to, this. This is good, but there's still some final tweaks too be done. Or at least I'd do so. I remain, as always, Mad-Hamlet Greetings, Looking at this: it looks good but there's room for improvement, for instance there's that white space on the right side, and its kind of big. So further tweaking is necessary. There are two ways to edit the animated bits, quick n'dirty, and slow, suicidally monotonous; yay for the fact that basic transformations are the the former. So we want to 'nudge' the Animation and transform its size. If you do this as brazenly as one does this in normal Photoshop you're going have one freaky bit of animation. We need to make changes that affect every layer, and insure those changes are reflected in every frame. Now in normal Photoshop if you wanted to make transformation that effected multiple layers that was easy enough. Click the layer you want to make the changes too, hold down the shift key, and click the bottom layer, and every layer in between those two will be 'activated, ready to be changed by the transformation. Or hold don't CNTRL and click the individual layers you want to make the changes too. Well, the same holds true for your animated sig in Imageready with one extra step. That's right, you have to 'Activate' every frame as well. Open the Layer Folder in the Layer tab. Click the top Layer, then holding Shift, scroll down to the bottom and click the last Layer. Move on over to Animated Frames window and repeat the exercise; scroll to frame one, click the first frame, hold down shift while scrolling to the last frame and click on that as well. http://www.photochopz.com/forum/tutorialpics/madsig/image09th5.jpg[/img] You are now ready to make some basic changes to all the animation. This can be very resource demanding on a users machine so be careful, and slow. You can do all the basic transformations, size, rotation, and flips; you can nudge the entire thing where you want within the canvas; You can create a colored layer above the animation and then change it's layer style for some interesting effects. However, you can't change layer styles, or use filters. Those are greyed out. In essence you can do lots of things but whatever changes you make, must be reflected in every. single. frame. Again, this only works for basic changes. Detailed changes are a lot harder...and far more boring. To do those kind of changes, for example, say making an square of animation, into a circle, as if you had a round television set, takes using the Elliptical Marquee Tool, making a 'selected area' (marching ants circle) inverting it, then deleting, on every layer, the corners off, making sure the correlating frame of animation is activated. I tried doing this with all sixty layers activated at the same time and Imageready practically lunged out of the monitor and tried to strangle me to death. There you have, the basics to smashing formats together to create an animated sig file. And these are just the basics. With some real tweaking you can work After Affects into the equation as well as movie editing software or hand making your animation frame by frame within Imageready or other .GIF making programs, or fooling around with blue screening, green screen and the like. It just really depends on how much you're willing to work at it. And just because you can animate something huge and awesome, doesn't mean you should...sometimes smaller conveys much more. And with that.... I remain, as always, Mad-Hamlet

Tutorial by, Teaser ;)

In this tutorial i will show you how to create, move and animate eyes in Photoshop. I am using Photoshop CS3 and if i am not wrong you can do this in Photoshop earlier versions. Lets start this tutorial bounce . First open an image in photoshop, make sure the eyes of the image you took is clear and visible. Here is the image i am using for this tutorial. Step.1 Create a selection of pupil and copy it to the new layer. Temperoraly hide this layer. Step.2 Now make the selection of eye balls using any one of these tools ie pen tool, lasso tool or paint (using quick mask mode). Step.3 Create a new layer and fill the selection with white color. Step.4 Use the "Burn" tool to create highlights and shadows for that filled layer, as show in the image below. Settings for "Burn tool" After applying Highlights using "Burn- tool". Step.5 Open color balance under Image >Adjustments > color balance, apply some green and blue to match the color of the eyeballs.(Move the slider to magneta and yellow to perfectly match the colors, you can also use "levels"). Step.6 Now unhide the 'pupil' layer, highlight the selection of that layer and make another copy of it by holding Alt key (option key in MAC) and place it on other eye ball. Here is the finaly image, after copying the pupil from one eye to another one. Step.7 Make the pupil layer as a ' clipping mask ' to the eye-ball layer (eye-ball= the layer we have filled it with white). After completing step.7, you can move eyes. Final Step. Open the animation palate under windows menu and create an animation by moving the eye. Here is the final output after creating animation and by following these steps you can create some cool animation like the one shown in the image below. Here is another example. Tutorial by ~~> Willie Arolf

How to create Icons in Photoshop and replace your standard Desktop Icons. Desktop Icons made easy. Note: In this tutorial I'll show you how to create icons from a standard image and replace your desktop icons. Step.1 Open an Image into Adobe Photoshop. Step.2 Erase the Background around the image. Step.3 Apply Layer styles to the image, use your own setting untill you satisfy with the final output ( for example apply thick shadows and highlights). Step.4 Now it's time to change the size of the image. Right click on the document windows and change the image size to 72x72 px. information: Standard Icon sizes may vary between 32x32, 72x72, 98x98 and 120x120. Step.5 The converted image will look like this, save the image to a transparent PNG file ie .png optimized for web. Step.6 Now it's time to convert the PNG image to a standard Icon file. open this URL in your browser and http://www.converticon.com/ Upload image and click convert then download the converted Icon file to a safe place. You can also use Offline tools like this one AveIcon ~> http://www.vistaico.com/software/AveIconifier2.exe Step.7 Finally you have created an Icon. Now replace your desktop-icons with the ones you just created in Photoshop like as shown in the figure below. I hope that you have enjoyed this tutorial and have a nice photoshoping. From this tutorial you will be able to build your own icons (it's image converted-Icons or Vector Icons) you can use them in your Auto-run CD's or you can sell them for money.bounce Tutorial by, Teaser

I think it's easy ;P I will try to make something similar!

This tutorial attempts to show how to blend a human and animal face. Selection of compatible photos with similar quality and lighting is a good first step toward making any successful chop. I found this dog photo to start with. I then found a picture of Paul Walker and figured Dog-Walker those two gotta go together. I placed the photo of Walker over the Dog and lowered the top layers opacity to around 50% then (control-T) to transform the Walker layer and moved, resized and rotated till I go the dog and human eyes to align and look about right. I turned of the human layer and duplicated the dog layer so I could preserve the original file should I screw up. I started working on the duplicate dog layer to clone and heal over the dogs nose and mouth so I had a clean fur area to work with. The end result of this cloning came out like this. I turned on the human layer and added a layer mask to hide most of the face and leave the eyes and nose. I decided the original human mouth was too large so I masked this out also. I start out using a black brush at 100% opacity to roughly mask all the areas I want hidden and then as I get closer to a finished result I begin lowering the opacity of the brush I use on the mask layer to help feather the results and make the masking more subtle. The eyes and nosed wound up being masked like this. Since the mouth needed to be resized, I duplicated the human layer and disabled the layer mask. I changed the layer opacity to 50% and used Free Transform (control-T) to shrink and move the mouth into position. I then enabled the layer mask and repainted the entire mask to reveal only the mouth portion as shown in this image. I saved the psd file to keep all my layers intact and then I selected Save for Web and Devices to create a JPG output file for the web. Since the image needs some final sharpening, I opened the JPG and ran UNSHARP MASK with these settings to bring out more hair detail. The final image results looked like this.

The tools like the magnetic lasso tool and stuff works great when you need to remove a background, but it doesn’t always works great around the hair of someone. So, here is an easier way which works great! This is the image that I will be using: Go to Filter – Extract. With the Edge Highlighter tool, trace around the edge of the person: Now with the fill tool, click on the person to fill it. Click Ok :) If there is little parts of the picture that were removed, go over it with your history brush! Done! Easy isn’t it? Credits ~~> Deidredup

In this tutorial I will show you how I made this "out of bounds" picture with a guy on a BMX bike jumping out of a laptop computer. These are the 2 source pics that we will be using for this http://www.photochopz.com/forum/tutorialpics/bmx/bmxsrc.jpg http://www.photochopz.com/forum/tutorialpics/bmx/laptopsrc.jpg --- First open your picture of the guy on the BMX bike. Then using the magic wand tool set to a tolerance of 15 - 20 select all the sky and clouds around him. Then select the free selection tool and select the rest of the picture. You should now have everything but the the bike and the guy selected. Then go to "Select" and click on "Inverse" to reverse the selection, leaving only the guy on the bike selected. Now that you have selected the bike and rider you will want to make a new layer via copy of him. Click on "layer" then click "new" then "layer via copy" Now on this new bike layer we need to fix the spoke issue. The spokes in this pic dont show up very well. So we will make our own. Using the free selection tool select the entire inside of the wheel. Making sure not to get the forks or gears. Just the area where there are spokes. Then once you have it all selected go to "layer" then click on "new" then "layer via cut" Then once you have cut out the spokes, you may delete this new layer, it is not needed. Now go to "layer" and select "New" then "new layer" and make a fresh new later. Name it "spokes". This is where we will add the spoke layer. Place it in the middle between the "bike" layer and the "background" or bottom layer. Now take the line tool and set it too 1px width. Select a light color, maybe something from the blue sky or one of the old spokes. Dont worry if it looks too light because we will darken them later. Taking the line tool, draw in the spokes on each wheel. Do your best to have them come from the center of the wheels hub and out to the edge of the wheel. Now take your the Burn tool and set it to a very light burn. Now using it on the spokes darken them a bit until they look natural. Dont go too dark but make it so that they are visible and stand out. You may now merge the spoke layer and the Bike/Rider layer by selecting the top layer (bike/rider) and then clicking on "layer" then "merge down" Now you should have the BMX bike and the rider completly cut out and have your spokes re-added. Next we will remove the rider from the background image. Hide the bike/rider layer and take use the clone tool set to about 100px wide and a very soft setting and clone out the bike, replacing him with clouds and sky. --- Now open your Laptop picture Drag the two layers from the bike picture into it. Hide the bike/rider layer as we work on the skate park layer. Now with the skate park background selected click on "edit" then go to "transform" then "scale" and resize the park to a more managable size. Now go to "edit" then "transform" then click on "distort" and line up the corners of the skatepark picture with the corners of the laptops screen. once you place the background onto the laptops screen you may then take the bike/rider layer and using "free transform" (edit - transform - free transform) you can place the bike rider into position. Then taking your burn tool, select the laptop layer and lightly burn a little bit of a shadow onto the side of the laptop under the bike for added effect. When you get done, you should have a picture that looks very similar to this:

For this tutorial I'll show you how to make a Mad Penguin Step 1. Open the images you are going to use in Photoshop. Step 2. Select an area of one picture, and drag and drop it into the other picture. Step 3. Lower the opacity and move it around until you find out where you want to put it. Step 4. Create a layer mask by clicking the layer mask button on the layers pallette. It is the third button on the bottom of the layers palette (the square with the circle in it) Grab a soft edged brush and select the color black. Begin to "erase" from around the mouth Zoom in close and use small brushes to erase around small details. Step 5. Go to edit/transform/perspective, and fix the perspective so it fits better on the background. Step 6. Using the clone tool, erase the birds eye and beak from the background. Step 7. Go back to the top layer and continue to erase areas and blend until it blends into the background picture. Now you have this! you can get the two source images I used here- stock.xchng - lion (photo by dsparil) stock.xchng - Little Blue Penguin (photo by mouse)