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Steps:

1)Obtain necessary supplies from one of the following websites:

http://www.arcadiaid.com

http://www.poisonid.com

 

 

2)Find and edit the templates

Search a Peer-2-Peer network such as Kazaa, LimeWire or BitTorrent to find a template. By using Adobe Photoshop or Macromedia Fireworks, or a free program like GIMP, you should easily be able to edit the templates

 

 

3)You should begin editing by changing the text fields.

 

Edit the eye and hair color fields as follows:

Eye Color- Indicate eye color abbreviation:

BLK - Black

GRY - Gray

MAR - Maroon

BLU - Blue

GRN – Green

PNK - Pink

BRO – Brown

HAZ - Hazel

MUL – Multicolor

 

Hair Color- Indicate hair color abbreviation:

BAL – Bald

BRO – Brown

SDY - Sandy

BLK - Black

GRY - Gray

WHI - White

BLN – Blonde

RED – Red

 

 

4)Then, scan in the photo and signature image files

You need to scan in a passport photo or other acceptable ID picture. Also scan in a signature. If the background of the passport photo does not match the background of the state id, you will need to do some editing.

 

 

5)After scanning the passport photo into the computer, the person's face will need to be separated from the background so it flows seamlessly with your ID card template. Using a program such as Adobe Photoshop, Macromedia Fireworks, or GIMP, provides you with an image editing tool called "Magic Wand". This tool will allow you to click a color in the image and it will select all surrounding colors that are similar or the same. There will be a slider that will allow you to select the amount of variance from the color you select. The higher the variance relates to more of the image that will be selected. Once the background is nearly fully selected without containing any of the person's face, press 'Delete' on your keyboard to erase it. You can then magnify the image and use the eraser tool to clean up around the person's face. At this point, zoom out and copy the image. It can be pasted onto your ID card template. It will then flow seamlessly into your template design and you can choose any background color you want!

 

 

6)Then, add a Barcode

The unusual-looking scrambled barcode on the back of most driver’s licenses is known as a PDF417 barcode. This barcode contains most of the information contained on the front of the license. By editing this readout, you can encode your information into this barcode. You can generate these barcodes by finding a free PDF417 Generator online. Below is the general sequence.

 

ANSI 6360263f02DL20393504EM02460010DLDAQ1414556

DAASMITH,JOHN,A

DABSMITH

DACJOHN

DADA

DAG423WILSON

DAIMIAMI

DAJFL

DAK044

DBB190922

DBA2480922

DAU511

DAW170

DAZBR

DAYBLU

DBC2

DBHN

DARC

DBD200684003

DASB

DBE1

DBIN

EMEMEWPFD

 

 

7)Add a Magnetic Stripe

If your license requires a magnetic stripe and you want it to be scannable, it can be encoded with an encoder. Generally these are very expensive and are difficult to find. However, you can get the EasyIDea Magnetic Stripe Encoder for less than $400 bucks. There are two types of magnetic stripes, HiCo and LoCo. HiCo and LoCo magnetic differ in that HiCo are much more difficult to demagnetize. The encoders for these typically were much more expensive than for LoCo. Most HiCo encoders encode LoCo stripes as well. The best way to program the stripe is to decode a working driver’s license, edit the data, and then program it back onto the stripe. Encode the magnetic stripe after the card is finished

 

 

8)After editing is done, you can start printing

You will need to print on a synthetic paper. There are two types of synthetic paper that are nearly the same. Teslin and Artisyn paper are single layer, silica-filled, polyolefin printing substrate with unique microporous and temperature resistance features that make it the product of choice for laminated ID badges. Teslin is more expensive than Artisyn and much less versatile. If you want to use a desktop inkjet printer, you will achieve better results with Artisyn or Artisyn NanoExtreme™ synthetic paper. Printing on Teslin with an inkjet does not work well and tends to look grainy and smear. The Artisyn and Artisyn NanoExtreme™ are coated with chemicals to absorb the ink effectively. It is cheaper than Teslin, works well with all types of printers including inkjet and laser printers. It also tends to produce better print quality results. Teslin can be found at PoisonID.com and Artisyn can be found at ArcadiaID.com. Arcadia also sells perforated sheets that punch out in the size of the ID cards.

 

 

9)The next step is to select your printer. The preferred method is to use a pigmented based inkjet printer like an Epson printer with DuraBrite ink. This tends to produce incredible results and works well with Teslin even though it is not a laser printer. Better results are still achieved on Artisyn paper, and for the highest quality results Artisyn NanoExtreme™ should be used. If a pigmented ink printer is not available, a laser printer is still a good result. Laser printers produce sharp and clear results, but the ink tends to look waxy. Lastly, any dye-based inkjet printer will work fine. A dye-based inkjet printer is that standard color printer that most people have in their home. Again, if you use dye-based inks make sure to use Artisyn. You should print on highest quality photo settings.

 

Print on one sheet of paper, both front and back.

 

 

10)Then, the next step is cutting.

If you are using EasyIDea Microperforated Artisyn, you can skip this tedious step. Otherwise, start by cutting out the ID from the paper. Tracing the dimensions of the ID using a butterfly pouch is generally helpful. A paper cutter or X-Acto knife is also helpful. After cutting sheets by hand for a while, I decided I’d rather use the punch-outs from http://www.arcadiaid.com

 

 

11)Then you will need to laminate.

You must use thermal laminating in order to bond the butterfly pouch to the synthetic paper. Once laminated, the card will harden and resemble a PVC card. You must use a thermal (heat) pouch laminator. Avery, Arcadia EasyIDea, or GBC makes good ones that run around $50.

 

 

12)Next, place the insert into the butterfly pouch. You must place the card into a carrier. Run the carrier through the laminator. Immediately following lamination, it is helpful to place the card under something flat like a book so that it cools flat.

 

 

13)Then, apply a hologram.

Generally, it is acceptable to use a generic hologram. Very few people actually examine the hologram and read what it says on it. I have had my fake for over two years with a generic hologram on it and I have never had a problem. If you’re concerned about making something that looks truly authentic, there are other methods to replicate holograms.

 

 

14)Making a Hologram

The gold holograms on many ID cards are called binary holograms. These holograms can be easily reproduced using Pearl-Ex paint and Photo-EZ paper.

 

This product is for making stencils. A stencil is basically the outline of a picture with the negative part missing. To make the stencil you scan the hologram off your id, then convert it to an all black image. Next you print the image on a transparency. A transparency is a transparent sheet of plastic meant for inkjet printers or lasers. Then you take the transparency and tape it to the Photo-EZ. You put it out in the sun and all the areas of the material not covered by the black negative of the holo cures. When washed the part covered by the negative washes away, leaving you with your stencil. You will want to order the high resolution material. This product can be ordered from cBridgeand more information can be found there.

 

As for the painting material, the two main ones are Interference Gold (Fine) made by Golden Acrylics and PERL-EX DUOTONE. The latter of the materials work best because of the fact it reflects two colors of the spectrum. Perl-Ex comes as a powder and preparation is needed. These paints are transparent when viewed from straight on. When viewed from different angles you see different colors depending on the particular colors of the paint. Perl-Ex comes in Duo Red-Blue, Duo Blue-Green, and Duo Green-Yellow. Perl-Ex is available in a lot of places here is one: http://www.sierra-enterprises.com/pearlex.htm

 

You have to buy a Transparent Base made for paints to prepare the Perl-Ex. A good one is Speedball Transparent Base. You mix in a 1:50 ratio. 1 part Per- 50 parts base. If you are using Golden acrylics then you use a 5:1 ratio. 5 parts paint 1 part base. When applying the paint in the stencil, you should use if possible one of those brushes made for screen printing. It is like a pencil but with a flexible tip. A sponge can be used but extra care needs to be taken when applying. You want to apply a very thin amount and practice will be needed to get it right.

 

On a lot of the new ID's there is a multicolored hologram that reflects the full spectrum (like a rainbow). This is especially true of most of the Canadian ids. What you do is pick the two most dominant colors and buy the matching Perl Ex colors. This will be good enough to reproduce the holo. The holo can be put directly on the finished ID or before lamination on the inside of the pouch. If you choice is the inside then remember to put it in the reverse.

 

 

15)Then, you’re ready for the finishing touches.

It is recommended that you sand the edges of the hologram with a very fine grit sandpaper. This removes the jagged edges of the synthetic paper. You should lightly sand the front and back of the id to give it a more worn look.

 

 

16)Lastly, these instructions were to make a 30 mil drivers license that resembles a PVC card. If you want to make something thinner that bends corner to corner like some ID cards, you can remove the front part of the butterfly pouch and simply laminate the back of the pouch with the synthetic paper. Many machines use this method, but it can be accomplished manually. You can also replicate signature strips by scratching the surface of the butterfly pouch with sandpaper.

 

17)17.Have fun and don’t be an idiot with your ID.xD

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